Thursday, September 25, 2008

Cowl Neck

Did variations of the cowl neck today at patternmaking class. But first we did grading of the bodice. It was different from what R taught us, A commented we had this shocked look on our faces. We still did the grid but this time, it wasn't an increment of 1.25 each side of the grain line but in 3mm, 6mm, and 1.25 cm. I found it easier to follow than R's method though. It was much more accurate if done right. I just had to learn how to blend the lines properly.

A mentioned that patternmakers actually earn a decent amount of money. Some charge per piece of work. Some charge by the hour. She said that the going rate could go to AUD80 per hour or AUD5-AUD15 per piece. Not too bad, I thought. It was also interesting to learn that that there are still companies, small and large, that still prefer a person to do the patternmaking rather than having it done on software. I had always thought that it would be easier, faster and cheaper to have things done by computer. Apparently, I was wrong.

With the cowl neck, A showed us how a fabric cut on the bias would look when draped on a fabric. I kind of thought that draping then creating the pattern would be better rather than learning the flat patternmaking first then doing the draping then redoing the pattern. But A said that students have to learn the flats first to understand the principles behind the alterations and what-nots. In addition, we were doing it based on industry practices and industry requires mass production and not couture. And to do that, you need a pattern to work on since you can't go to all your potential clients and measure them. (Interesting side note, Australia still does not have one sizing standard. Companies here pretty much make their own sizing which explains why I'm' a size 6 in one shop and a size 8 in another shop or even a size 10 in another). However, we will be doing couture next year so depending on who the teacher is (I prefer S's husband, T), we would be doing a lot of draping and making our own patterns as well.

Can't wait.

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